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The Rob Roy
Way
By
Chris Conroy
For my annual walking
holiday this year I decided to do the Rob Roy Way.
Day 1: I began my
journey from Milngavie and walked the first leg on part of the West Highland
Way.
The West Highland Way is a
separate walk and runs from near Glasgow (Milngavie) to Fort William in the
highlands.
It was Scotland’s
first long distance walk and is well connected with two other long distance
walks the Rob Roy Way (Dryman to Pitlochry) and the Great Glen Way, the walk I
did last year (Fort William to Inverness).
Chris at Milngavie the starting point of his
walk
CLICK THE BUTTON TO VIEW THE MAP |
The
first leg of the West Highland way you leave Milngavie and follow a water pipe
line which supplies Glasgow with water from Loch Lomond.
The route passes through Mugdock Woods which as you can
see was full Scottish Bluebells
Mugdock Woods
Milngavie |
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The first day's
walk a distance of 10.6 miles took me three and half hours to complete.
The first night I camped at Easter
Drumquhassle Farm, my Rucksack with my tent, sleeping bag, food and cooker had
arrived before me.
This year I
used the baggage service to transport all my heavy gear last year I carried it
all on my back, I’m getting too old for that now.
Easter Drumquhassle
Farm |
The second Day was
from Drymen to Aberfoyle unlike the West highland Way the Rob Roy Way is not
way marked so you have to keep on top of your map reading. The route is mainly
old drover’s roads, dismantled railway tracks, forest roads and paths.
The Rob Roy Way (78 miles/126km)
is a new long distance walking route through the southern Highlands, which
links the Trossachs area with Breadlabane and Atholl in Highland Perthshire.
The Trossachs are synonymous with Rob Roy MacGregor (1671-1734), the fearless
Highland clansman and cattle reiver. Rob Roy was based in the Trossachs, but
his cattle reiving (raiding), trading, and protection activities took him north
into Breadalbane and beyond. Nowadays you can enjoy peaceful walks from village
to village in this historic and beautiful area of Scotland.
The route is named after Rob Roy
MacGregor who was born in 1671 into the proscribed MacGregor clan; he became
Scotland’s most famous outlaw. His wealth came from cattle droving and
dealing around Loch Lomond and the Trossachs, with the Duke of Montrose as his
patron. The business collapsed after his head drover left taking all the cash.
In 1712 the Duke had him bankrupted and outlawed. His house was burned down and
his family evicted.
Rob Roy swore
vengeance, and began a long campaign of thieving cattle, with the occasional
kidnap of Montrose’s servants. He supported the Jacobite side in 1715, but
was an onlooker at the Battle of Sheriffmuir. Later he was accused of high
treason and his home was burned by troops. He escaped several times, but in
1725 he submitted to General Wade and received the King’s pardon. He died
in his bed in 1734 at the age of 63 years and was buried at Balquhidder.
Day
2: An easy start by following a minor road out of Drymen as it
climbs above Strathblane, before descending again to the southern entrance to
the extensive Loch Ard Forest. The route then continues through the forest
until you reach Aberfoyle the most southerly of the Trossachs
villages.
The weather on the second
day was wet but not too bad; I travelled some of the way on the West Highland
Way and then branched off along a forest track to Aberfoyle. On some of the
route you can see part of the Loch Katrine water system.
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The water system
was a bold response to the lack of clean drinking water for the rapidly
expanding city of Glasgow. In the nineteenth century, private water companies
sold water to the public from horse carts, and diseases flourished. The cholera
outbreaks of 1838 and 1848 resulted in many thousands of
deaths.
In 1853 the city fathers
commissioned John Bateman, civil engineer, to look at options for improving the
water supply. He reported that the best source was Loch Katrine: there was very
heavy rainfall in its catchment area and also its water was exceptionally pure.
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Aqueduct Shaft |
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An act of
parliament (1855) was needed to authorise the engineering works. These were on
an impressive scale: · A huge dam to raise the level of Loch Katrine.
· An aqueduct 26 miles
long to carry the water towards Glasgow
· A storage reservoir at Mugdock, just to the
north of Glasgow.
· 26 miles of
mains aqueduct and 46 miles of distribution pipes to deliver the water to
households throughout the city.
Astonishingly, these works were completed in less than
four years, and in October 1859 Queen Victoria opened the scheme. It was a
resounding success, wiping out cholera at a stroke.
Corrie Aqueduct |
Corrie Aqueduct is
the longest aqueduct in the Glasgow Corporation's Water Works Loch Kathrine
Scheme supplying fresh water to the City of Glasgow.
The second night I stayed at a camping and caravan site
just outside Aberfoyle
Aberfoyle
is a small but important village and lies in one of Scotland's most beautiful
locations at the southern edge of the West Highland Fault, and lying inside the
Lomond & Trossachs National Park, with Loch Ard , Loch Chon, Loch Arklet
and Loch Lomond all lying to the West, Loch Katrine, Loch Achray and Loch
Venacher to the North and the Lake of Menteith, Scotland's only "lake" lying to
the East.
The village is without
doubt the most important gateway to the Trossachs and has something for
everyone, including those people who love old mysteries.
Corrie Aqueduct |
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Day 3: Aberfoyle to Callander 12 miles. The
weather was not too bad, wet at first but cleared up as the day went on.
Part of the route passes Aberfoyle
golf course and I caught sight of these early birdies as I passed by.
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Aberfoyle Golf Course
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Today's
walk follows forest tracks through the Menteith Hills. After the short middle
section on open land you re-join a forest track down to Loch Venachar.
The last 3 miles are on a very
quiet minor road into Callander.. With a population of about 3200, Callander is
the second biggest town on the Rob Roy Way, and has a variety of shops, cafes
and pubs. Keep this in mind when you come to visit Scotland next year for our
Reunion in Bannockburn.
The forest
tracks around this area are used for Husky dog races so I had to keep one eye
on my map and the other on the track in case I should take a step in the wrong
direction.
Husky Assault
Course |
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As you gain height
the terrain becomes rougher. The hills are covered with woodland plantations of
dark green connifers, and patches of grassland covered with red-brown bracken
and bounded by dry stane dykes which were anything but dry that
morning.
As I passed by this
little spot my thoughts drifted back to the recce day's in BAOR.
Good site for
camouflage |
As you can
see the terrain in this area would make an ideal location for a radio relay
exercise.
Not sure if the Local
Laird would approve though.
Tac Sign |
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You can just about
picture this site covered with missiles and radar equipment. With the Battery
Sergeant Major strutting his stuff.
Not to mention the Battery Commander ranting on about
camouflage as Noddy and Big Ears would be sitting in the middle of this
hillside doing what they did best.. Exposing OUR
position.
You want me to put my B70
where? |
The route
passes farm land where you can see Highland Cattle grazing in the
fields.
Highland Cattle |
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Highland Cattle are
the type of beasts Rob Roy MacGregor would have been familiar with. Their
course hair, long horns, skins and lean meat would be put to good use in the
Crofter home.
These tough animals
with surefoot legs heavy coats can withstand the the icy cold winds and snow
that visit Scotland each winter.
The Cattle Drovers and Outlaws took full advantage of
their placidness and were easily herded across mountains, through valleys and
along these pastured tracks known locally as Drover Roads.
Smile for the
Camera |
The back
road into Callander, the heart of the Trossachs
The third night I stayed in a camping and caravan site
in Callander.
Callander is a haven
for tourist's visiting the Highland's certainly worth a visit although it can
be a little pricey.
Callander Heart of the
Trossachs |
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Day 4: Callander to Strathyre 12 miles. The route
follows the old Stirling to Oban railway line, which was closed in the 1960's.
This begins by the banks of the River Teith and soon passes the remains of a
Roman Fort, before a gentle climb through the Pass of Leny to Loch Lubnaig and
into the Highlands.
The old
railway line now a cycle track continues along the west shore of Loch Lubnaig
until you reach the small village of Strathyre.
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View of Ben Ledi as you leave
Callander |
What a
stunning sight this carpet of bluebells on a hill as you leave Callander, and
who left that rock there?
A huge
boulder sits on the brow of the hillside as though it was beckoning someone to
come and give it a gentle push to help it over the edge so that it could slip
down into the valley below.
Giant Stone |
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You can just about
picture this site covered with missiles and radar equipment. With the Battery
Sergeant Major strutting his
stuff.
You want me to put my B70
where? |
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Queen Elizabeth
Forest Park was first designated as a Forest Park by the Forestry Commission in
1953 to mark the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II.
From the east shore of Loch Lomond to the rugged
terrain of Strathyre the Forest Park encompasses mountain and moorland, forest
and woodland, rivers and lochs.
It
is home to a rich variety of animal and plant life. For many visitors the
attraction of the park lies in the peace and quiet, the magnificent views and
the wide range of activities and facilities.
The route passes through a small part of the Queen
Elizabeth Forest park
Queen Elizabeth Forest Park
Information Centre |
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If you are looking for a
remote home with great views and peace and quiet how about this house, top
centre of this mountain.
Not an
ASDA or TESCO in sight.
Room with a view and what a view.
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Loch Lubnaig, you
can see the route in the foreground.
The mountains rise sharply from the waters in this
breathtaking view.
Loch Lubnaig |
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Another view of Loch
Lubnaig further up the route.
Note the young conifer
plantation in the foreground. Within ten years it will not be possible to see
the top of the mountains from here let alone the waters as these young saplings
grow rapidly in this type of
terrain.
Loch Lubnaig further up the route.
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Chris caught on
camera as he double checks to see that he has set the shutter timer correctly.
Is the timer on the camera working?
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The the Rob Roy way
leads you down and across this suspension bridge, as you enter the centre of
Strathyre where I stayed at a caravan and camping site on the forth night.
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I thought you might enjoy a
view of a differnt kind. The inside of my tent, yes I did tidy it up for the
picture before I bedded down for the night after a long hike.
Home Sweet Home. |
Day 5: Strathyre to Killin 13.7 miles . Fine
weather.The route out of Strathyre with a view of Ben Sheann
behind.
From Strathyre village,
the route continues north by a forest track before re-joining the old railway
line. Here you have the option to take a small diversion to visit Rob Roy's
Grave at Balquidder. Soon after Balquidder, the old railway line begins to
climb above the village of Lochearnhead, and continues up to the head of
Glenogle before descending to the village of Killin at the west end of Loch
Tay.
Strathyre
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BUTTON TO VIEW THE MAP |
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The view of Ben
Sheann as you leave
Strathyre
Ben Sheann
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A view of the Glen
further up the track.
The view of Ben Sheann |
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The stone
commemorates the young music teacher who died in 1997 while cycling on the A9,
the main road out of Killin.
Memorial |
The Memorial Stone
is at the start of this bridge crossing and has a warning for other cyclists to
' Enjoy your ride and stay safe!
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Bridge with a Warning |
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The route starts to
climb, where you get good views of Loch Earn and then moves into Glen Ogle
towards its superb long viaduct
Loch Earn |
Disused rail Viaduct into
the village of Lochearnhead
Disused rail Viaduct into the village
of Lochearnhead |
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Glen Ogle Pass
A deeply cut valley extending
north westwards for 7 miles (11 km) to the Lix Toll from Lochearnhead in
Stirling Council Area, Glen Ogle contains within its narrow bounds the River
Ogle, the main A85 road to Oban and Fort William and the remains of a railway
line that used to extend to Crianlarich. At the head of the glen is Lochan
Lairig Cheile. The present road supersedes an older military road built in 1749
by Major Caulfield, a successor to the road-building General Wade.
Glen Ogle Pass |
Old Rail Viaduct at
Glen Ogle
Old Rail Viaduct at Glen Ogle
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On the hillside on
the track into Killin I came across this memorial to two RAF Tornado Pilots who
were killed while flying low in the area in 1994
Memorial to Tornado Pilots |
The stone reads:
Erected to the memory of Flt. Lt Patrick Peter 'Rick'
Harrison BSc RAF Born 3rd August 1961 Died Aged 33 years
Flt. Lt Peter John Micheal Mosley RAF Born 21st March
1963 Died Aged 31 Years.
Died on
these hills wheb their Tornado Crashed 1st September 1994
'Go
with God'
Memorial to Tornado
Pilots |
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As you enter Killin you
pass the falls of Dochart and the Clan MacNab Burial Ground.
Falls of Dochart |
Clan MacNab Burial
Ground.
The Sign at the entrance
reads:
Clan MacNab Burial
Ground.
Keys available from the Tourist
Information Centre.
Access At Own
Risk.
Sounds a trifle
scarry, do you think it might have a Ghost or Twa?
Clan MacNab Burial
Ground. |
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I spent the night in the
youth hostel at Killin, I shared a dormitory with 4 other guys, and none were
speaking to me the next morning. I don’t think they got much sleep with my
snoring, I had been down the pub had a good meal and a few sherbets the night
before.
Scottish Youth Hostel at
Killin |
Day 6: Killin to Kenmore 18 miles. The forest
road out of Killin taking you up to Breaclaich Dam
This day starts by following a forest track up into the
mountains to the south of Loch Tay, from where you descend again to the tiny
village of Ardeonaig. From Ardeonaig, you follow the very quiet and beautiful
back road along the south-side of Loch Tay, passing the small settlements at
Ardtalnaig and Acharn.
CLICK THE
BUTTON TO VIEW THE MAP |
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The route takes you past
the impressive Breaclaich Dam. This Dam turned a small loch into a major power
source. It provides efficient hydro-electricity, driving three separate power
stations on its way downhill.
Breaclaich Dam |
Dating to the
1970's a relative newcomer to the Scottish Hydro Electric infrastructure. Its
role is to impound water heading for Loch Tay and feeding it through pipes and
tunnels into Loch Lednock.
4 km
from Milton Morenish, Perth and Kinross
Breaclaich Dam |
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A view of the
distant Mountains and Breaclaich Reservoir
Breaclaich Reservoir |
A view of Loch Tay
as you approach Ardeonaig.
Loch Tay and the mountains beyond
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I stayed the night at a B
& B in a little village called Acharn outside Kenmore.
Acharn being blessed with many varieties of bird and
animal wildlife.
Golden Eagles can
be spotted above the heather moor and in Acharn red squirrels are staking their
claim to one of their last strongholds in
Scotland.
Red squirrel country |
Just outside the
village of Acharn is the Scottish Crannog Centre which is focussed on its
reconstructed Oak bank Crannog which is 2600 years old. This was based on the
nearby early Iron Age site in Loch Tay which divers have been excavating since
1980.
Scottish Crannog Centre |
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A view of Loch Tay as you
approach Acharn.
Loch Tay |
Day 7: Acharn to Aberfeldy 10.5 miles. The route
passes the falls of Archarn, which you hearit's roar long before you see it.
4 km from Milton Morenish, Perth
and Kinross
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BUTTON TO VIEW THE MAP
Falls of Archarn |
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Above the falls is a
Hermits Cave, a theatrical folly built by John Campbell, third Earl of
Breadalbane, in the 1760s
Following the Rob Roy Way as it climbs up the hill from
Acharn Kenmore, and continues along forest tracks to the Falls of Moness, and
the Birks o' Aberfeldy. The path down the Birks is steep in places but wooden
platforms and bridges make the final descent to Aberfeldy easy or so the guide
books say.
Hermits Cave |
The platform gives
you glorious views of the falls, originally this was enclosed featuring a bow
window overlooking the main falls, with stuffed wild animals in niches around
the cave walls.
Observation Platform |
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A view of Loch
Tay
A view of Loch Tay
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View of Loch Tay
with the village of Acharn in the foreground
Village of Acharn |
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Loch Tay with Kenmore in
the foreground.
Loch Tay |
Sited below the Rob
Roy Way, Taymouth Castle lies in the foreground. The castle dates from 1810 and
was the work of several famous architects. Its interior is one of
Scotland’s finest neo-gothic examples, and is surrounded by a golf course.
The castle is being renovated to operate as a seven- star hotel. I did think of
nipping down and asking if they would do us a deal for a future 260 re-union. I
think the bar prices may be a bit high!
Taymouth Castle |
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Day 8: Aberfeldy to
Pitlochry 11 miles. As you leave Aberfeldy and cross the River Tay you pass
over General George Wade’s bridge
General George Wade (1673 -1748),
Commander –in –chief of the Hanoverian army in North Britain (i.e.
Scotland). During 1724 -40, he and his subordinate, major William Caulfeild,
built 240 miles of military roads and many forts and barracks in the Highlands
due to the Jacobite risings.
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BUTTON TO VIEW THE MAP
General George Wade’s bridge
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Although Wade is
famous for his military roads, he himself thought his finest achievement was
the Tay Bridge in Aberfeldy. It was built to a design of William Adam’s,
and after 250 years it still carries vehicles without any weight restriction,
thanks to its superb design and construction. By the bridge is the Black Watch
memorial
After crossing
Wade's Bridge over the River Tay, the route follows the quiet back road to the
village of Strathtay. Here you follow an old track over the hill (250m ascent)
between Strathtay and Strathtummel. After passing a small Neolithic Stone
circle in the forest, the path descends to cross the River Tummel and enters
the town of Pitlochry.
Black Watch Memorial |
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Black Watch Memorial |
| Only in Scotland would they tell you how much the
repairs cost. |
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Chris Conroy |
| Black Watch Memorial - Tay Bridge at
Aberfeldy. |
River Tay on way to
Pitlochry
River Tay
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The Dam at Loch Tummel
at Pitlochry, the Dam has a fish ladder with a salmon viewing
chamber.
Pitlochry is best known
for it's Hydro-Electric Dam and 'Fish Ladder', (where if you are lucky you may
see salmon swim upstream). The town also has two malt whisky distilleries, and
many beautiful walks in the surrounding countryside.
Pitlochry Dam |
I completed the Rob
Roy Way in 8 days a total of 100.5 miles, with no blisters much to Ann’s
discussed; she enjoys seeing me in pain. I stayed the night at the youth hostel
in Pitlochry
Journey's End |
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ROE
DEER |
GROUSE |
| I did see a
good variety of wild life on the route. However I missed taking pictures as I
am not that quick with my camera. There were a few I was quick enough to
catch. |
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